Paris sparkled with the latest haute joaillerie collections delighting in themes as varied as architecture, wildlife, rouleau collars and big gemstones.
Explore our curated selection of the latest high jewellery trends for 2024, featuring exquisite collections from renowned brands. Soon to be cherished by their fortunate owners, these pieces offer a glimpse into a world of beauty and craftsmanship. Click the links below to visit the brands' websites and take a closer look at these impressive jewels.
Beasts
The call of the wild was heard by Cartier and De Beers who rounded up diamond and black lacquer zebras and golden lions at De Beers and a diamond panther bracelet from Cartier that stretched from wrist to finger. There were snakes, leopards, kudu and giraffes from the plains of Africa and forests of the Amazon. Chanel’s emblematic lion roared as a diamond coat of arms brooch. Yet there was joyful whimsy amongst the wildlife with Chopard and Dior offering scampering bunnies, deer, swans and frogs. Dior’s fox, deer and squirrel were carved in chrysoprase and an enchanting ring with emerald-set titanium frogs supporting a gold crown appeared in Chopard’s Fairy Tales collection.
This ring from Chopard's Fairy Tales high jewellery collection 2024 features two emerald-set titanium frogs embracing a 17.71-carat round-cut rubellite, reminding us that, like in fairy tales, delightful surprises await everywhere.
The panthère Jaillissante from Cartier's Nature Sauvage high jewellery collection 2024 is set with a 8.63-carat Zambian emerald.
Architecture
From the skyscrapers and brownstones of New York to the palaces of the Silk Road and the steel girders of the Eiffel Tower architectural forms and structures were redrawn in diamonds and precious-coloured stones. Vuitton discovered a rare and mesmerising 56.23ct fancy deep orangy-pink square emerald-cut diamond for its Coeur de Paris pendant inspired by the Eiffel Tower. Boghossian drew exotic motifs from the palaces of Qianlong, Jaipur and Persepolis to create mosaic settings of turquoise, lapis and coloured gemstones. A contrast to the modernist constructions of New York architecture sparkling in diamonds with sapphire windows from Harry Winston, or Pomellato’s monochromatic treasures inspired by its home city, Milan. Similarly, the Back Bay Queen's Necklace by Surat Jewels draws inspiration from the vibrant cityscape of Bombay. Featuring a central diamond and exquisite gemstones, the design reflects the sunset over Marine Drive and captures the essence of Bombay's skyline.
The Asimmetrico necklace from Pomellato's 2024 "The Dualism of Milan" high jewellery collection features sinuous rose gold plates that embrace the body like fabric. Inspired by César Pelli’s architecture, it undulates gracefully, showcasing Pomellato’s metalwork mastery.
Designers drew straight lines, crossbars and circles to produce graphic geometric patterns to encircle necks and wrists. Chanel’s sporty collection while coinciding with the Paris Olympics this summer toyed with stars, squares and circles in primary-colour gemstones and playfully rearranged Chanel’s typography. It’s equally delightful to get lost in Gucci’s Labrinati (Labyrinth) collection with linear pathways connecting emeralds with opals, and aquamarines with Paraiba tourmalines on cuffs and bracelets. Chaumet ’s rhythmical collection had a jazzy, graphic onyx and diamond bracelet reminiscent of a keyboard. Elsewhere, Hermes drew rainbows of wavy lines for necklaces and rings that explore the colour spectrum and amorphous forms, and Linkage, one of Tasaki’s three 70th anniversary high jewellery sets, was inspired by the pearl oyster baskets - square outlines set in diamonds and highlighted with tanzanite, aquamarine and grossularite garnet.
This ring from Chanel's "Haute Joaillerie Sport" collection 2024 features a stunning cushion-cut Mandarin garnet. Celebrating Chanel's sporty style since the 1920s, this collection merges elegance and excellence.
The Chaumet en Scène 2024 high jewellery collection showcases music, dance, and magic. This diamond bracelet and necklace embody the Maison's artistry and movement, each piece highlighting exceptional stones and craftsmanship.
Bi-colour precious metal
We’ve seen this trend of mixing white and yellow gold in the watch world and now it’s inspiring jewellery designers with Tiffany & Co, Piaget and Louis Vuitton experimenting with a platinum and yellow combination. Tiffany & Co’s celestial theme paired platinum with yellow gold for starburst pendants and constellation earrings. Vuitton uses bi-colour platinum and gold for rounded collars. Amongst all the colourful gemstones at Piaget is a collar in yellow and white gold combining engraving, rope twists and diamond settings, although yellow gold generally predominates their Extraleganza collection.
The Shooting Star necklace from Tiffany's Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste high jewellery collection, inspired by Jean Schlumberger's iconic motifs, features 78 carats of amethysts with star details and billowing ribbons, echoing the trails of a shooting star.
This Piaget collar necklace, part of the Extraleganza high jewellery collection 2024, features yellow and white gold with intricate engraving, rope twists, and diamond settings, showcasing the Maison's masterful use of gold and celebrating 150 years of extravagance and elegance.
Fancy cuts
Aside from the artistry in the designs and settings of high jewellery there is an opportunity for Maisons to present magical gemstones, like Vuitton’s spectacular large, coloured diamond in the Eiffel Tower-inspired pendant. Graff secured two rare Colombian emeralds, one in a kite shape for a bracelet and the other, an elongated lozenge for a ring. Their eye-catching cuts make them a focal point, like Gucci’s floral geometry necklace, featuring a 53.25ct lagoon tourmaline and a 19.68ct Ethiopian opal, accented by mandarin garnets and opals in a sleek, diamond-set design. The Mimosa collection at Damiani features necklaces and bracelets in a mosaic of precious stones in various cuts and shapes artfully arranged that highlights a trend for fancy cuts in several collections.
This ring by Graff inspired by avant-garde architecture was unveiled during Haute Couture Week 2024. It features a rare 21.46-carat elongated lozenge-cut Colombian emerald with a cabochon surface, surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds.
This necklace from Gucci's Labirinti High Jewellery collection 2024 draws inspiration from Italian gardens, showcasing intricate designs that reflect the beauty of Nature in a one-of-a-kind piece.
Rouleau collars
Smooth, voluminous rolls or cord-twisted torques present a refined modern look to grace the neckline. These collars, like padded Renaissance-style rouleaux, are appearing more frequently in collections from Messika, Bvlgari and Louis Vuitton, with Messika’s snow-set diamond collar featuring a yellow diamond centrepiece and their pavé-set diamond torques dangling interchangeable diamond pendants. De Beers’ bold interpretation in gold and diamonds is fringed with tiny gold beads while Bvlgari’s Terra Mater Serpenti coiled collar interpretation draws on its Tubogas bracelet technique and dangles an enormous emerald cabochon.
This diamond collar from Messika's 2024 Midnight Sun High Jewellery collection dazzles with a snow-setting pavé and a striking central diamond, beautifully encapsulated in yellow gold to accentuate its brilliance.
The Terra Mater Serpenti necklace by Bulgari features a gold and diamond snake coiled around a large cabochon emerald.
XXL stones
High jewellery is a Maison’s showcase for rare and impressive precious gemstones like the enormous cabochon emeralds, rubellites and tourmalines for which Bvlgari is famed and Dolce & Gabbana’s super-sized amethysts, kunzites, green beryls, and aquamarines in their lavish baroque-style gold filigree settings. However, the collections are now presenting large colourful ornamental hardstones as well including coral, opal, carnelian, and turquoise, notably at Buccellati, Damiani and Piaget. One standout piece was Boucheron’s Iceberg necklace with enormous drops of frosted white quartz and diamond.
The Fantasy Cut necklace by Damiani, celebrating the Maison's centenary this year, features a 63.97-carat Muzo emerald set in white gold and surrounded by emerald-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds.
The Iceberg necklace by Boucheron, from the 2024 Carte Blanche high jewellery collection, is crafted in white gold, and features rock crystal, and diamond pavé. Inspired by Iceland's powerful waters, this piece captures the essence of water's beauty and strength.
Gardens/floral
Nature has always offered designers an abundance of inspiration with flowers adorning women since ancient times. There is something fascinating about reproducing a subject as fragile and transient as a flower in a material as hard and enduring as a gemstone. This is why gardens and prettily coloured blooms have been a recurring theme in jewellery over the centuries. Anna Hu has long been drawn to flowers with orchids and roses a current favourite shaped in coloured titanium with a ceramic finish and coloured gemstones. Chopard’s fairytale flowers feature oak leaves, a rose trapped in crystal and lots of tiny pavé-set blooms and Christian Dior’s jewels are a bucolic setting of shrubbery and trees with fauna hopping through its midst.
This necklace from Dior's 'Diorama & Diorigami' high jewellery collection 2024 by Victoire de Castellane features vibrant gemstones and exquisite craftsmanship, celebrating nature's beauty and the French Maison's exceptional savoir-faire.
These Chopard oak leaf earrings from the 2024 "Contes de Fées" Red Carpet collection feature fairies on each acorn, crafted in ethical 18-carat rose gold and titanium, adorned with pearls, and brilliant-cut tsavorites, emeralds, and diamonds in shades of white, yellow, and cognac.
Browse the carousel to discover more jewels.
The butterfly brooch from Buccellati's 2024 "The Prince of Goldsmiths" high jewellery collection features two stunning diamonds as the body, symbolising metamorphosis and reflecting Buccellati's evolving style and timeless beauty crafted through generations.
This Dolce & Gabbana 2024 high jewellery necklace features exquisite goldwork and stunning purple XXL gemstones, blending artisanal precision and timeless Sardinian tradition into a striking masterpiece. Credit photo @DSL Studio
This brooch from Chanel's 2024 "Haute Joaillerie Sport" collection reinterprets Gabrielle Chanel's symbols in a sporty design, featuring a lion motif and the Chanel signature in an openwork imprint for the first time in high jewellery.
These Harry Winston earrings, from the New York Collection, feature dazzling diamonds and sapphires, capturing the vibrant energy, iconic landmarks, and perpetual motion of the city that never sleeps.
This necklace from Boghossian's high jewellery collection 2024 "Palace Voyages" is a journey through time and space.
This necklace from Gucci's Labirinti High Jewellery collection 2024 draws inspiration from Italian gardens, showcasing intricate designs that reflect the beauty of Nature in a one-of-a-kind piece.
The Back Bay Queen's Necklace by Surat Jewels features a central diamond accented by vibrant gemstones and 1,257 diamonds, reflecting Bombay's skyline. Surat Jewels, a fourth-generation brand, offers bespoke high-end jewellery at their new Mayfair store in London.
This Piaget collar necklace, part of the Extraleganza high jewellery collection 2024, features yellow and white gold with intricate engraving, rope twists, and diamond settings, showcasing the Maison's masterful use of gold and celebrating 150 years of extravagance and elegance.
This ring from Chanel's "Haute Joaillerie Sport" collection 2024 features a stunning cushion-cut Mandarin garnet. Celebrating Chanel's sporty style since the 1920s, this collection merges elegance and excellence.
This ring from Chopard's Fairy Tales high jewellery collection 2024 features two emerald-set titanium frogs embracing a 17.71-carat round-cut rubellite, reminding us that, like in fairy tales, delightful surprises await everywhere.
This ring by Graff inspired by avant-garde architecture was unveiled during Haute Couture Week 2024. It features a rare 21.46-carat elongated lozenge-cut Colombian emerald with a cabochon surface, surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds.
The Protection necklace from De Beers' "Forces of Nature" high jewellery collection 2024 celebrates the animal kingdom and our deep connection to the natural world, showcasing exceptional artistry, unmatched craftsmanship, and extraordinary diamonds.
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Francesca has been a freelance fashion and jewellery writer for over 20 years, originally working with The South China Morning Post in Hong Kong before returning to London and launching into the world of fashion and celebrity at Hello! Today ...
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