La Gioia di Pomellato 2022 takes us on a A Walk in Nature, from sunrise to darkness in a dazzling narrative told through jewels. Each jewel expresses the changing light, moods and sensations of different moments of the day with the house’s signature creativity and heritage of savoir-faire.
From everyday jewels to the most magnificent masterpieces, Pomellato creates jewels with a strong identity that are as easy to recognise as they are to wear. Since 1967 when Pino Rabolini founded the house in Milan, this premise has been at the core of all Pomellato’s designs. The strength of this approach is evident in the firm’s third high jewellery collection that once again dares to reinvent the traditional and conservative codes of high jewellery.
Vincenzo Castaldo, Creative Director of Pomellato explains: ‘During this walk in the natural world, the language revolves around the feeling and sensations of the journey such as the texture of a flower petal, the nuances of a stormy sky or the beauty of a fiery sunset. We wanted La Gioia to generate emotions that blossom on the skin through organic jewellery that follows the movement of the body, adorning it with gold, stones, colours and light. Nature evolves throughout the day capturing its ever-changing facets, creating a dynamic dialogue in tune with our deeply rooted identity and iconic Pomellato style.’
Seven themes or chapters take us from the first Morning Sun to Midday Gold, on to Sunset, the Evening Shadows and finally Darkness punctuated by a Summer Storm and Shades of the Rainbow. Here is our selection of seven jewels that caught our attention from the thirty-three that make up this impressive collection.
1: “Secrets of the Rising Sun”: The Blue Reef Rivière necklace
What stands out in this stunning necklace is the soft shapes and gentle hues of the five aquamarines that evoke the rays of the sun over the sea at dawn. This is the first time Pomellato uses baroque-shaped gemstones and these have a total weight of over 150 carats but it is the way that Pomellato uses these highly valuable stones that make this jewel so original. The uneven silhouettes of each aquamarine are embraced with diamond-set wires that loop around each stone. This has been done with such mastery that the gold wire appears to have been cast around them with ease, giving the piece both an appealing informality and tactile allure. Contemplating the watery blue colours of the gemstones is like staring at the undulating water from above a quiet cove of the Mediterranean Sea.
2: “Midday Gold”:The Princess the Rapper Menta necklace
This necklace captures the power of daylight with a show-stopping lagoon-green 17.9-carat Paraiba tourmaline. The vibrantly bright and intricately facetted centre stone is full of energy. It hangs around the neck on sturdy rose gold links that give way to the softer curves of chunky gourmette links, each luxuriously swathed in diamonds. Equally arresting are the two near twins of the Menta version featuring a 18.55-carat soft pink morganite reminiscent of the petals of a peony and a 15.65-carat sea blue aquamarine.
3: “Into the Sunset“: The Orange Dream Ring
This ring evokes the golden glow of the setting sun just before it dips below the horizon thanks to a 46.9-carat mandarin garnet cabochon. Three black-gold claws are set with orange sapphires and brown diamonds that rest against the centre stone creating a glowing fireball reminiscent of the end of a beautiful summer day.
4: “The Evening Shadows“: The Flower Power ring
The transition from day to night is eloquently expressed in a spectacular ring that floats above the fingers. The graduated palette of blue-grey spinels, sapphires and diamonds echoes the bleached-out colours of a landscape under the pale light of a rising moon. Like all Pomellato's jewels, the Flower Power ring is handmade in the firm's Milan workshops and is entirely crafted from responsible gold and diamonds sourced from Responsible Jewellery Council certified sources.
5: “Discoveries in the Darkness“:The Velvet Tie Chain necklace and the Dream Flex Cuff
The Discoveries in the Darkness chapter captures the moment of transition from light to shadows in dramatic monochromatic jewels.
One of our favourites is the Velvet Tie Chain necklace that is a sophisticated interpretation of the 1940’s style of jewellery. Two soft and flexible gold mesh chains loop around the neck from which dangle two jet pendants adorned with diamond-set roundels and garnet cabochons.
The Dream Flex cuff bracelet perfectly captures the nuances to be found in the darkness of the night. This flexible bracelet is made up of rose gold links, some set with black and others with white diamonds. This irregular pattern is interspersed with smooth links that reveal immaculately polished gold. The domed structure of the flexible cuff bracelet is identical to the multicolored version set with 2,500 colour gemstones from the Shades of the Rainbow chapter.
6: “Summer Storm“: Dans l’Ombre Sautoir Necklace
The Summer Storm chapter offers an impressive long necklace set white South Sea and grey Tahitian pearls. The infinite shades of grey of a summer thunderstorm are reflected in both the graduated tones of the pearls and the the bluish-grey hues of spinels, sapphires and white diamonds set into the outsized link.
La Gioia di Pomellato 2022 is a testament to Pomellato’s unique view of nature captured in its daring approach to high jewellery. Each design is so boldy original and brilliantly concieved and crafted that they can be worn with ease from the red carpet to everyday denim.
