Out of the pandemic has come the Magnifica, the most valuable high jewellery collection that Bulgari has ever produced in its 137 years of history of creating lavish jewels. The 350 spectacular, mainly one-of-a-kind jewels were unveiled in Milan in early June in a socially distanced COVID-compliant event. Milan rather than Rome was chosen in recognition of the heavy toll that this northern city endured during the pandemic. The spectacular jewels are an ode to joy, a silver lining to the dark cloud of the past 18 months that remind us the resilience of optimism and human endeavour.
This sumptuous collection includes 60 jewels worth over a million euros each, a sure sign of belief in the future and better times to come. Such a celebration deserves the very best and spectacular gemstones have been selected from around the world. Look no further for examples of the excellence of the gemstones than the Imperial Spinel necklace set with the fourth largest-known spinel weighing 131.21 carats. This remarkable stone was unearthed in Tagikistan and sets the tone for a collection that as its name implies, is indeed magnificent. Other gem highlights include the stunning 98.83-carat Colombian emerald cabochon set in the jaws of a diamond serpent that tantalisingly coils around the neck in the Hypnotic Emerald.
Exceptional rubies, sapphires and diamonds are in abundance as are more unusual minerals such Paraiba tourmalines. Five of these electric blue Paraiba tourmalines are surrounded by waves of diamonds and emeralds in the Mediterranean Queen necklace evoking the clear water of Sardinia. Like many of the most complex pieces, this necklace required 2,400 hours of work in Bulgari’s high jewellery atelier in Rome. Another eye-catching prize gem is the 77.88-carat tanzanite that sits at the centre of the Fluid Tanzanite choker.
The style of the Magnifica is a break from the Bulgari high jewellery collections of the preceding three years as it is not tied to a theme. The 2020 Barocko jewels were inspired by the Renaissance architecture of Rome, the 2019 Cinemagia referenced the golden age of Italian cinema and the glamour of the DolceVita while the 2018 Wild Pop was a homage to the groovy styles of the 1980s. The 2017 Festa was all about celebrations with many figurative jewels in the form of party balloons, cupcakes and miniature toys. Magnifica is more traditional in its approach with predominantly abstract designs that focus attention on the wonderful gemstones and the craftsmanship that has been lavished on each jewel. A second thread runs through some of the designs that honour outstanding women from Zaha Hadid to Artemisia Gentileschi though the references are subtle and often just a through the use of colour or form. Very Bulgari and thoroughly feminine and glamorous, the Italian jeweller goes from strength to strength as it confirms its position as one of the top haute joaillerie creators in the world with a style of its very own.
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Honouring one of the the most accomplished seventeenth-century Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi, the Baroque Spiral necklace features cabochon rubies, emeralds and sapphires that echo her use of chiaroscuro as well as her rebellious and indomitable spirit. MAGNIFICA 2021 High Jewellery Collection by Bulgari.