While other jewellers may look to haute couture for inspiration, Lydia Courteille goes a step further and unzips the secrets of the allure of Paris and its famously seductive women. Lydia herself explains: ‘This collection is a tribute to Paris, the capital of glamour and amour.’ The idea of creating a jewellery collection so closely referencing boudoir-wear came to Lydia while looking in the windows of Chantal Thomass, a famous Parisian lingerie house. Although for many years Lydia had provided Chantal with jewels for her photo shoots, it is only now that she created a collection directly linked to the aesthetics of lingerie and the erotic cabaret shows of Paris from the Crazy Horse to the Moulin Rouge.
The entire collection is in dusty pinks and black, evocative of dark lace lingerie on pale flesh. Lydia uses morganite, pink sapphires and tourmalines off-set against black diamonds and warm rose gold to create this seductive illusion of the most under-dressed jewellery collection on Place Vendôme.
Ribbons, corset ties, bows, lace, bunny rabbits, feathers and masks find their way onto rings, earrings and bracelets that evoke the frisson of the Paris of Edit Piaf’s La Vie en Rose. But never one to take a theme too literally, Lydia takes us on a voyage full of twists and turns to reveal Paris’ playfully kinky spirit. The most obvious reference to the capital of l’amour are the chandelier earrings (below) that are a voyeuristic glimpse at the lacing of a corset. Topped with little bows begging to be undone, pink morganite drops complete the coyly seductive jewel. But there is more: look again and the form of the Eiffel Tower is evident in the criss-crossed structure of the earrings. In contrast to this elaborate statement, the slender black diamond bow bracelet, is a simple coquettish hint of intention.
Ribbons and bows adorned with pink sapphires and diamonds weave around a large morganite in the Bath of Dita ring (below) inspired by the 1954 Crazy Horse act in which Miss Candida frolicked in water in an outsized champagne coupe; an act replicated by the striptease artiste Dita von Teese some 50 years later.
Still in the world of cabaret, the Dali Lips sofa, used as prop in the Crazy Horse cabaret, finds its way onto the finger in the Canapé de Dali ring (below). Invisibly-set baguette-cut morganites form a pair of pink lips with a surreal touch.
Never one to hold back, Lydia looks to Ancient Greece and the myth of Leda, who was seduced by Zeus. Disguised as a swan, Zeus slipped into her bed at night. The moment is captured in the Leda bracelet (below). The bird’s wings set with pink sapphires wrap around the central morganite.
Perfect to wear with not very much else, La Vie en Rose perfectly captures the allure of Paris's naughty side.
This bracelet by Lydia Courteille from the La Vie en Rose collection recalls the Greek myth of the seduction of Leda by Zeus who stole into her chamber in the guise of a swan. The bird’s wings set with pink sapphires wrap around the central morganite.
A suggestive little bow in the form of a bracelet is set with black diamonds in the La Vie en Rose collection inspired by the French lingerie maker Chantal Thomass.
Layers of lace and bows decked in pink sapphires, morganite and black diamonds evoke the delicacy of lingerie in this ring from Lydia Courteille’s La Vie en Rose collection.
The pink of morganite and sapphires evoke the soft flesh tones of skin paired with feathers reminiscent of the legend of Leda and the swan in Lydia Courteille’s La Vie en Rose earrings.
The black lace of lingerie is recreated in blackened gold and set with black diamond studs for a kinky take on the traditional cuff bracelet.
Ribbons and bows weave around a large morganite in this cocktail ring inspired by the 1954 Crazy Horse act in which Miss Candida frolicked in water in an outsized champagne coupe, an act replicated by Dita von Teese some 50 years later.
The lacing of a corset runs down the centre of these chandelier earrings that end in little black bows and drops of pink morganite by Lydia Courteille from the La Vie en Rose collection. The earrings also evoke the most famous Parisian landmark: the Eiffel Tower.
Invisibly set baguette-cut morganites form a pair of lips in the Canapé de Dali as used in one of the acts from the Crazy Horse cabaret, in turn borrowed from Dali’s famous Lips sofa.
Playfully erotic, the bow tie rings sits beneath the knuckle and the bunny rabbit mask slips on above for a cabaret effect on the finger.
For many years, jewellery designer Lydia Courteille has provided the jewellery for Chantal Thomass’ photoshoots which prompted Lydia to create a collection around the world of lingerie.
La Vie en Rose taps into glamour and ‘amour’ of Paris, the vedettes of the famous cabaret shows and the sex-appeal of French lingerie for a kinky and very precious jewellery look. .
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After many years as a freelance journalist and editor specialising in watches and jewellery, together with Christine Pasquier, Maria founded The Jewellery Editor. Maria’s work appears in a wide variety of notable publications, including the Financial Times, Intelligent Life, Telegraph ...
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