It is fitting for Van Cleef & Arpels’ new location in the heart of Paris’s theatreland that the inaugural exhibition, the first of many free exhibitions, should be about stage jewellery featuring jewels worn by stars like Sarah Bernhardt and the 18th-century tragedian, Talma.
Stage Jewels of the Comédie-Française is in the new exhibition gallery at the Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau, an 18th century hotel particulier mansion house renovated by the jewellery house to provide a second address in Paris for L’École, School of Jewelry Arts. The gallery in the listed neo-classical building on the Grands Boulevards features an extravagantly decorated ceiling added in 1890 and inspired by Charles Garnier who built the opulent Opera Garnier and makes a neat theatrical connection with this opening exhibition.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ collaboration with Comédie Française has brought many discoveries from the theatre’s rich archives. Costume jewellery was made mainly of imitation materials using faux pearls, glass gemstones and gold-coloured metal alloys, yet the designs were crafted with the same finesse as fine jewellery and often appeared on stage alongside precious items gifted to actors, such as Sarah Bernhardt’s René Lalique brooch which is on display.
Alongside the costume pieces 19th-century actors often provided their own jewellery, items designed to display the social status on stage of the actors who wore them, whether the jewels were relevant to the plot or not. These jewels sometimes mixed glass and ceramic with real materials like coral and lapis lazuli which made repair work a challenge.
There are diadems, swords, necklaces, headpieces presented alongside illustrations and early photographs of the actors in costume. A comb with coral pearls made to look like a diadem and another with glass pearls and cameo were made for Rachel Félix, a famous actress of the time. Also on show is the crown given to Talma by Napoleon and inspired by the emperor’s crown. Talma was a close friend and dated Napoleon’s sister Pauline Bonaparte. Onstage, the actor embodied the emperor when he was away on campaigns and the crown created a symbolic link between theatre and political power.
The idea behind the opening of the Van Cleef & Arpels school, the exhibition galleries, the impressive jewellery library and street-level bookshop is to create a cultural space in this part of Paris which is also close to the workshops of the precious stone carvers of Rue Lafayette as well as the theatre district.
The exhibition is open until October 13th, 2024 Free admission, reservations lecolevancleefarpels.com
