Phillips Hong Kong is fast earning a name for itself as the place to find the most impressive selection of superb jewels at auction. And next up is the Phillips Hong Kong Fall Jewels & Jadeite sale that will take place on the 28th of November 2020 at 5pm HKT. Ahead of the auction, a live preview will take place from 26-28th of November at the JW Marriott Hotel in Hong Kong, but for a sneak peek, all the pieces can be viewed on Phillips' website now.
But before the main event, here is our take on this world-class curation of jewels that without doubt, confirms the Hong Kong sale as a beacon for sophisticated buyers. It is in this unique atmosphere, that the knowledgeable team at Phillips brings together both the best of classic investment-quality diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, as well as the most desirable international names from Place Vendôme to Bond Street. The wide range of the jewels includes 20% that have No Reserve and 40% from famous names such as Cartier, Bulgari, Graff and Van Cleef & Arpels. And with a twist that only the Hong Kong team could pull off, two of the top lots are the show-stopping Les Jardins de Giverny necklace (above) and the Fountain of Diamonds ring (below) by Chinese rising star Feng J.
In collaboration with the auction house, Feng J, the young artist jeweller, has produced two of her most important jewels to date exclusively for the November sale. Graeme Thompson, Worldwide Head of Jewellery at Phillips describes Feng J as: ‘one of the world’s most sought-after contemporary designers’. Born in Hangzhou, China into a family of artists at the age of 34, Feng J has arrived into the rarified world of high jewellery. The artist studied extensively in France, England and China and now works between Paris and Shanghai serving her growing following of young and highly discerning collectors. Feng J’s unique style marries the heritage of Place Vendôme with her exquisitely sensitive eye for shape and colour. Feng J has garnered recognition for her innovative ‘floating setting’ technique. This complex and meticulous process allows her to create the illusion of floating gems. The technique involves both customised stone cuts and near invisible mounts and settings that give an ethereal lightness and vivacity to her jewels.
The top lot is the Les Jardins de Giverny necklace that pays homage to the French Impressionist painter Claude Monet and his interpretation of nature, and in particular his famous gardens outside Paris. Feng J has created an exquisitely delicate, blossoming pastel scene where glimmers of colour are woven through with shafts of light. Over 83 carats of double rose-cut sapphires, aquamarines, spinels, tanzanites and tsavorites shimmer amongst 32.53 carats of diamonds custom-cut into bead, rose-cut and brilliant shapes. At the heart of this surprisingly lightweight necklace is a 19-carat Fancy Light Pink, Type IIa diamond whose soft rosy hue captures the light of the morning sun breaking through the clouds. A section of the necklace can be transformed into a bracelet and the large pink diamond can be converted into a ring.
The second top lot by Feng J is the Fountain of Diamonds ring. Enchanted by the many fountains that grace Paris, Feng J has created a ring with a central 22.08-carat D colour, VS1 clarity, Type IIa diamond. The solitaire is accentuated by a coil of 95 diamond beads totalling 18.24 carats, that spiral up the finger, each spinning in their delicate cup setting. The effect is as delightful as seeing water cascading through the air in this masterfully conceived and executed jewel. Feng J calls this ring a ‘truly contemporary sculpture’ destined, she hopes, for a woman ‘who loves art and integrates it into her style.’ One look at the ring and there is no doubt that Feng J has perfectly captured the joyous experience of watching a fountain on a sunny day.
Amongst iconic jewellery designs and other desirable jewels spanning a wide range of styles and eras, Phillips has created a section devoted to noteworthy gemstones. The selection has been organised according to the ancient Chinese philosophy of the five elemental essences of the universe: Metal, Wood, Water, Fire and Earth. Each section is brimming with wonderful examples of jewels that either literally or figuratively bring to life the yin-yang theory of balance and its importance in many Eastern disciplines from martial arts to medicine.
The diamond takes pride of place in the Metal arena thanks to its exceptional strength and the metallic glint of perfectly cut facets. The clearest example is the 12.33-carat D/IF, Type IIa, pear-shaped diamond ring – itself reminiscent of the tip of the blade of a sword - set in platinum (above). A Van Cleef & Arpels diamond and white gold 'Alhambra' bracelet and pendant necklace are included in this section, along with a pretty diamond and platinum necklace set with pear, marquise and round brilliant-cut diamonds.
The colour green and the warm tones of wood inevitably bring to mind the power of nature and the healing and nutritional power of plants. Karen Suen is often inspired by nature and in this sale are two jewels that naturally fall into the Wood category and in particular the rose ring and earrings carved from ebony that offer a warm and deep contrast to the fire of diamonds (above). Playing with the verdant light of two of the most loved green gemstones, Karen Suen unites emeralds and jadeite in a stunning ring (below). The eternal appeal of emeralds beams out from a rare emerald and diamond bracelet. It boasts thirteen of the finest 'No Oil' Colombian emeralds totalling 19.87 carats and the same number of collection-quality diamonds with a weight of just over 20 carats.
It is no surprise that the most beautiful blue gems have been chosen to represent the cleansing and refreshing qualities of Water. A 1.74-carat Paraiba tourmaline and diamond pendant shines out like a ray of light through water. Made in the 1950’s, an impressive 50.89-carat Santa Maria aquamarine can be worn as either a pendant or a brooch. The star of the aquatic line up is a 17.13-carat Burmese, unheated sapphire set into a ring (below) surrounded by a sunburst of diamonds.
The passion and intensity of Fire is translated into the gem world in rubellite tourmaline and rubies. Signifying prosperity and happiness, a pair of drop earrings glow with the warmth of 21.40 carats of rubellites, suspended from a floral motif diamond cascade. A classic-style white and yellow gold bracelet features eleven cushion and oval-shaped pigeon blood, unheated, Burmese rubies with a total weight of 11.39 carats, each wrapped in wreaths of diamonds. But if you are after an exceptional gemstone, then the 8.08-carat oval-shaped ruby(below) from the Montepuez mine in Mozambique is the one to bid on. Discovered in 2009, the Montepuez mine has since been producing top rated rubies such as this Pigeon Blood example in an impressive and auspicious size and weight.
Earth is the unifying element of all the forces and provides our sustenance and security. Earth types are known for their nurturing souls, kindness and commitment. And what better to represent the mysteries of the Earth than yellow diamonds? Created in the very heart of our planet, these minerals are billions of years old and carry a light born at the centre of the Earth’s creation. A 2.61-carat Fine Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring would bring sunshine to each day of its lucky owner's life as would the Fancy Intense Yellow diamond earrings (6.20 and 6.27 carats apiece).
The impressive Graff five-strand necklace (above) alternates radiant-cut yellow diamonds with white marquise-cut diamonds to spectacular effect. A total of 135.95 carats of diamonds are skilfully set to create a dazzling impact that's full of life and movement.
Take time to view the online catalogue as this sale is cleverly timed to make this the place to start drawing up the ultimate gifting season wish list.
Phillips Hong Kong Fall Auction Jewels & Jadeite, 28th November 2020, 5pm HKT Viewing | 26 – 28 November 2020, JW Marriott Hong Kong
